Wiring a Cerberus Smoke Detector

Hey guys. Today, I received my first conventional smoke detector. It was removed with hundreds of other identical smokes from my Dad’s work, but my Dad only brought me home one to start with, which is good, because I have absolutely no idea how to hook up 4 wire smoke detectors.

I am getting a replacement fire alarm panel in a few days, and I want to have this smoke ready for the test video. Does anyone know how I would wire a smoke like this into a Simplex 4004?

I snapped some pics below. It is a Cerberus Pyrotonics model PE-3 smoke detector with a DB-35 base. Thanks for the help!

SO annoying when they number the terminals instead of stating what they are for.

Unless someone else here knows…

Your best bet is to use the Wayback Machine to go to Cerberus Pyrotronics’ website to see if there might be an owner’s manual available.

I agree.

As far as the manual, I just made it easier on myself and texted my Dad at work asking if he could pick up another one of those smokes with wires still attached.

Here’s the second one he brought me home and how it is wired. Now how would I wire it into a Simplex 4004? Also, is there a way I can test the detector with just batteries and an alarm? I know how to wire pull stations directly to batteries, but not smokes. Thanks in advance!

That’s actually a 2-wire smoke, by how it is wired.

In that case, you will now have to check Simplex’s documentation on 2-wire smoke detector compatibility before you connect this to your panel. Most of the time it won’t be a problem if it is not compatible but sometimes the results could be disastrous such as a fried zone, or unexpected such as the zone going into alarm while the detector is not in alarm.

Thanks so much for bringing that up. I just looked at the detectors and realized they say 2.2 - 9.5 Volts DC.

I’m pretty sure the 4004 is all 24 Volts DC, so that would be way too much power. What would I need to convert the voltage?

It’s way too risky to cut the voltage coming from the zone in half, because of the risk of unintended operation or a fried panel.

I’d just say keep the detector as a display item only since there’s really nothing you can do without the risk of breaking your panel. Too bad, though… free stuff is always nice.

BTW, can you get your dad to find out what kind of panel these smokes came from? I am curious what panel used that low of a voltage on its zones…

Aw. What a shame. Well, at least I got some Cerberus Pyrotronics MS-501 pull stations, some Notifer BG-12L’s, and some Cerberus/Wheelock horn/strobes and strobes.

I believe the panel is also a Cerberus Pyrotronics, or should I say panels. Supposedly, it’s a 5-panel setup with over 100 zones.

He said he’ll check for you, but maybe, just maybe, I can get him to bring home the main panel with the controls on it. Right now, he plans on bringing me home the annunciator/panel tomorrow to play around with.

I’ll keep you updated…

Sorry for the late reply. Hope I’m not bumping an old topic. But to answer NewAgeServerAlarm’s question, I wasn’t able to get information from my Dad, since they have already thrown out the main panels, however, I have collected enough information to conclude that the system was probably a Cerberus Pyrotronics XL-3.

5 is negative, 1a is +24vdc in, 1b is +24vdc out to next SD or EOLR. 6 is used as an output to a remote LED annunciator.

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24? it says 2.2 to 9.5 volts.

Also, this topic is nearly 2 months old.

That’s the sensitivity voltages. The PE-3 has not been used for years. It was replaced by the PE-11 and DB-11 Base. It is a conventional 24vdc smoke detector. If you need a .pdf on this let me know. Cerberus/Pyrotronics was purchased by Siemens in 1999. Most of the older products were replaced by low profile detectors. The PE-3 only lit up the LED red if it initiated an alarm. The replacement detector, PE-11 has a tricolor LED. Green flashing for Normal, Yellow flashing for Trouble, RED flashing for ALARM.

Thank you so much! I didn’t think these actually were that low of a voltage. I’ll wire one of them up according to what you have told me.

My Dad said the system was pretty old.

Also, I’m sorry about continuing to bump the topic, but this is important to me.

Problem Solved! I have wired one of the detectors into my Simplex 4004 FACP just how you told me.

I applied power, plugged the batteries back in, and sprayed some body spray into the detector, and sure enough, the LED came on for about 2 seconds, and it sent the 4004 right into alarm.

Again, thanks so much for your help!

You should not use body spray to set off smoke detectors, it will damage them…

Yeah, unfortunately I learned that the hard way this afternoon. My dad works with fire alarm techs everyday, and he mentioned to me that I probably ruined it by using that.

After it didn’t activate the second time, I got another one (I have a few of them) and plugged it in. So I just won’t use body spray anymore with detectors…

Thanks.

You can probably save the detector from getting “Axed” (see what i did there?) by taking it apart and thoroughly cleaning the detection chamber, the photocell, and the infrared LEDs, all fins, and all vents with rubbing alcohol and a cotton ball, Q-Tips, paper towels, or something. After you’ve cleaned it out that way, blow it out with air from a can or an air compressor to get rid of little bits of fuzz your cleaning device may have left behind.

Order some smoke detector spray, such as Solo. It’s not very cheap but it is worth it for testing alarm devices.
You can also use an incense stick as it produces plain smoke. Many smoke detector manuals actually recommend a “punk stick” or an “incense stick” as an alternate method of testing their detector.

I just recently got about 6 of the same detectors for my homes system and in there manual it recommends to use a “incense stick” to fully test the detectors with smoke.

But i must say, if you can order some…order some Solo.
here you go! Its on sale too!
http://www.tclifesafety.com/sdi-soloa4-smoke-detector-tester-single-can.html