So this is just a single sound strobe wired to the pull station and I will set it off fine and reset it. But then try again to set it off and nothing but ill mess with the terminals on the pull station and it will work again wondering if it could be a power situation because I have it sharing with something in the attic with and exstension cord. Or if it could be a fault in wiring some where but i just have the pull station the stobe and then the power plug wire nutted together with the two in a junction box above. Should I change the power and make its own outlet jumping power for a different outlet
How exactly are you wiring this up, please be more descriptive? Are you using a power supply that plugs into the wall? If so, are you using a power supply that outputs the correct voltage and current for your horn-strobe, (12V/24V, AC/DC)? Make sure your connections are secure. The BG-12 is only rated at .25A at 30V AC/DC, so it HAS to be on the low voltage end and you cant be using too much current. It would be nice to know what horn-strobe you are using, it may help with troubleshooting. If your are unsure about anything you are doing, please don’t do anything. Safety comes first. Low voltage can still hurt you!
You said you’re trying to power this off an extension cord. You aren’t applying straight up 120VAC (house power) to this device are you? If so, STOP and disassemble whatever wires you have plugged in.
All horn/strobes today run on DC power. Most run on 24V DC, some run on 12V DC, and some others run on either 12 or 24. look on the back/sides of your devices, there is almost always a little label that gives you its rated voltage and current draw.
The ONLY time you should apply AC to a fire alarm is if there is a label on it reading 120V, 60 cycles/sec (or 60 Hz) (some AC signals also use 12/24VAC). AC signals were popular back in the 1950s-60s and are no longer manufactured and there isn’t a strobe in the world that runs directly on AC power. If you have applied AC to a DC device, you probably already have killed it. The pull station probably still works, but as TheBlueCFL said, BG-12 pull stations are only rated up to 30V DC and can’t handle much current either.
Exactly what is your experience level with electricity?
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AC signals were popular back in the 1950s-60s and are no longer manufactured and there isn't a strobe in the world that runs directly on AC power.
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Part true. There are still things you can get new that require 120VAC, most of which are for general notification (this includes strobes). The Wheelock 7004T has a strobe and is an AC device. The Simplex 2904-9152 is also made for 120VAC. Same for the Federal Signal VALS (still in production), there is even a 240VAC version. Though the circuitry is different, there are 120VAC strobes. I still don't recommend 120V notification appliances for anyone who doesn't have too much experience.
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Part true. There are still things you can get new that require 120VAC, most of which are for general notification (this includes strobes).
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Absolutely correct. I should have clarified. Most modern devices that run directly off 120VAC have a transformer and a rectifier bridge right on the mounting plate of the device (looking at you, System Sensor) and a few have it built in (so the physical horn and strobe components still actually use DC). I think Edwards still makes some version of the adaptahorn that runs on AC and I know System Sensor has a 120VAC bell as well. So that’s true, they definitely exist, however given their relative rarity I find it highly unlikely that our OP has somehow gotten their hands on one without knowing it.
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I find it highly unlikely that our OP has somehow gotten their hands on one without knowing it.
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I always expect the unexpected. However, not much advice can be given unless we know details about the device, setup, and power source. The only thing I know is that the BG-12 works intermittently, which may suggest an issue with wiring, but that may not be the case. It may just look like RED to RED and BLACK to BLACK, but it is never that simple.
One thing I think we can all agree on however is that if this is an AC signal the OP wants to power, a BG-12 is NOT an acceptable pull station for this. Edwards makes a pull station (270-DPO I think but I might be wrong) that has a switch capable of handling high AC voltage. There’s a few others too but pretty much none of Honeywell’s pull station lineup can handle much more than 30VDC/VAC.
Well, I’m more worried about the OP messing with 120V and not knowing what it could do or how it works. Who cares about the life of a fire alarm, especially a easily replaceable one.