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Use a heat source that doesn’t go above 110 or 120 degree’s to test the rate-of-rise heat, then you won’t ever pop the fixed sensor. If the detector is at a room temperature of say 70 degrees, you just have to heat it up to 85 or 90 in a minute. Shouldn’t get anywhere near 135. This is safer to do with a heat gun or a hair dryer than a lighter, a lighter can shoot it up pretty fast if you aren’t careful. It’s a 2-wire heat detector, it needs to be powered by a zone module to work. You’re better off getting a conventional heat detector if you want to rig up a circuit to activate an alarm without a panel.
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There are 3 different versions of the BRK smoke you have, the 1806 powered by 6vdc, the 1812 powered by 12vdc, and the 1824 powered by 24vdc. You need 12vdc to power it. How you get 12vdc is up to you, you can always use a separate power source from your main FACP. It has NO/NC/COM relay contacts that you can use to drive anything, including a signal. Simply take the positive lead from your power source and hook it directly into the positive side of the signal, then take the negative lead from your power source and connect it to the COM contact on your smoke. Then take another wire and connect it from the NO contact on your smoke to the negative side of the signal.
The NO/NC/COM acts like a light switch, connecting to the NO contacts is like connecting to a light switch that’s normally off. When the smoke detector activates, it flips that light switch, effectively completing the circuit and letting power pass through to the signal.
Also from System Sensor | Honeywell Building Technologies , the maximum allowed voltage for powering your detector is 17.3 volts. DO NOT CONNECT 24VDC TO IT!!!
edit: I should also note that activating a signal with an unsupervised relay like that isn’t up to code and shouldn’t be used in a real world application. For whatever hobby thing you have going on though it should be just fine.