Self-explanatory, the contacts are N/C. Any way to make them N/O without using a relay? I am using both my relays for a homemade FACP.
they’re designed to be n/c so the circuit can be supervised. i dont think n/o pulls are even a thing.
You are talking about the coded Edwards pulls, right? Because most non-coded pulls are N/O.
There are several different sets of contacts on the Edwards 1251 coded pulls. There are the actual coding contacts, a supervisory contact for the glass road, and another set of contacts that isolates the rest of the circuit when a pull is activated to prevent multiple codes from being transmitted at once.
Terminals 1 and 3 are your ZONE IN contacts. Terminals 2 and 4 are the ZONE OUT contacts. There is normally a connection between 1 and 2, and 3 and 4 respectively. When the pull is activated these connections are broken to cut off the rest of the circuit past the pull. Terminals 5 and 6 are the supervisory contacts for the glass rod (small button on front of unit.)
If you are only using one pull station just wire into 1 and 3 like a normal pull station. Wires going out to another pull station would leave from 2 and 4, enter 1 and 3 on the next device, and so on.
The buttons in the station themselves are N/C. The handle presses the button when the station is closed, opening the contacts. When the handle is pulled the button is released, closing the circuit. This does not apply to toggle switches. Is this what you meant, Chris?
Mine is the simpler version; code wheel, side key switch, internal test/silence switch. No glass rod supervisory.
The accessories really don’t matter. The basic wiring remains the same.
Here is a video of it.
I think this is different from others, the circuit breaks when it codes. Correct me if I’m wrong.
Here is another video, hopefully it will explain more.
I have the 1253. Does that make any difference?
Is the 1253 N/C while the 1251 is N/O?