Is the fire lite mp-12 as simple as the ms-2? Basically I want to know wish is easier to wire up and program. Thanks!
By the, this is my first post 
Howdy! I’ll let a moderator greet you proper, but be sure to familiarize yourself with the rules and everything should be copacetic.
The MS-2 is a two-zone, one-NAC fire alarm panel which runs off of 24VDC. It’s programmed via DIP switches on the board, so programming is as easy as flicking a few switches.
The MP-12 is one of Fire-Lite’s older “Mini-Panel” series which has far fewer features, has two zones, one NAC, and runs off of 12VDC, so 24VDC NAs and smokes (the majority of them) won’t work. You’ll need to either find yourself a collection of 12VDC devices or go for the MP-24, essentially the same panel, but running off of 24VDC. They are also programmed via DIP switches, though I’m not sure to what degree, as I’m not all that familiar with that series.
Be aware that both of these panels output Full Wave Rectified current (FWR), so that means electromechanical horns will sound disgusting on it, and all of Simplex’s signals from the 90s onward will fry.
Welcome to TFP, neighbor! I hope you enjoy your stay! 
Welcome to the forums!
The MP-12 is a bare bones panel - not much to it wiring wise, 8 terminals (120VAC, NAC, and two zones). So not much difficulty to wire this panel as long as you know what you are doing. Nothing to really “program” on this panel, NAC output is constant, the zone inputs are just that, inputs and cannot be configured any other way. No built in relays or dialer - although you can add one of 4 different accessory cards. Installation manual is only 20 pages long including the cover, index, and two blank pages so that tells you something! The only bad thing about this panel is there is only one trouble indicator - and it lights up for any trouble without telling you what exactly the problem is. So you have to check the battery, meter the NAC circuit, meter both zones, etc, until you discover the trouble. So if you are new to this or have limited troubleshooting abilities, you may want to steer clear of this panel. The MS-2 would be a better choice for that sake - at least if you had a bad resistor on zone 1 you would have a “zone 1 trouble” and would be able to narrow it down quickly.
In my opinion, the “MP” series of panels are a joke! They were inexpensive and quick to put in, but very limited and very easy to walk away from a panel that was impaired and forget about. I can’t count how many times I’ve come across one of these with the DISABLE switch depressed. At least the newer panels have the option of a trouble resound or reminder.
Thanks for all the help! Being that I’m new to fire alarms, I’d be ok with a simple panel but he I would like to run 24v devices so I guess I should go with a mp-24 or ms-2.
Based on the fact i don’t own any horn/strobes or horns, I think I will hold of on buying a panel for a while.
Any way, i have a small amount of wiring and electrical knowledge so I want some thing very simple. I understand no matter how simple the FACP, I won’t be able to set up a system in 5 minutes after getting the panel. It would probably take me weeks to get a system running.
While you’re just starting out with a few devices, it would be my recommendation just to power everything with a 24 VDC transformer.
Ok, I’ll try that for now. Now to buy a simplex t-bar, simplex horn strobe and a bg-12
Edit: me and my dad have 2 12V DC deep cell marine batteries we use for are boat. Since it’s winter and we’re not using the batteries, could I wire them together to get 24VDC?
Yes. However - safety first! Be sure to have a fuse holder with a 2 or 3 amp fuse in it as the first component in your circuit. Those batteries can easily throw 50 to 100 amps into a short if you make a wiring mistake. That can melt the insulation off your wires and burn out the switch in a pull station.
My first power source was three 9-Volt Batteries connected to each other with alligator clip wires making all of the connections, and it powered my 24VDC alarms well (enough). Definitely a lot easier and safer than dealing with those larger 12VDC batteries.
I use a pc power supply to power mine. With separate switches for each alarm. For 2 wire one switch, for 4 wire one switch for the horn and one for the strobe for audible silence! Most of my alarms work on it But yeah I first powered that Specteralert Classic that you gave my U8oL0 on one 9 volt battery. This is a old video btw.
Can someone fix this so its embedded?
Just take the characters after the “/watch?” (in this case, “dCF3zI5O8bc”) and put it in the YouTube tag.
I think i will look into a 24VDC transformer.
Oh, and once again, thank you for all the help!
Also, what would horn strobe and pull statation would you recommend for a newbie like me who has never owned a fire alarm in there life?
Don’t know if you’ve seen this, but here are two videos Andrew made giving recommendations as to what pulls and notification appliances a newbie like yourself would like to be on the lookout for: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSUUNoW0h_Q & https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jObJs6nQUAY
Here’s some of my own recommendations:
Pull: BG-12 - Really any variety of the pull will do (key lock, addressable (since you can make it conventional), etc.) and are really easy to find new or used at decent prices.
Pull: Simplex Tbar or RSG Tbar - Once again, really easy to find. The RSG metal ones are especially durable and good for beginners
Alarm: SpectrAlert Classic or Advanced - Widespread, both have built-in coding options, really straightforward
Alarm: Wheelock MT (any variety, really) - Simply because this alarm has many different coding and tone options built into it, it’s a great alarm for beginners since it’s almost like 8 alarms in one
Alarm: Wheelock CH70 / Siemens CH series - These Chime/Strobes are great because they’re not that loud and you probably won’t run the risk of bothering anyone in your house when you set them off
Obviously these are only just a couple of good options for first alarms. My recommendation would be to look around on eBay or other websites and see what’s available for a good price. If you have any questions about any devices you encounter and/or want to check with us before you buy them to make sure they’re “good” alarms, please do!
Thank you for the advice. I have really started to like the bg-12 pull station, so I think you know what I’m getting pull station wise I might go with the SpectrAlert horn.
I would have to agree with Jared. My two favorite devices are the BG-12 (any make or model, though I prefer the NBG-12LX because I like addressable devices) and the MT. They’re both great starts for beginners, and they look nice in buildings together.
The BG-12 is very unique in that it stands out from other devices nowadays. Most modern devices, outside of Simplex, are absolute junk compared to the quality and design of the past, yet the BG-12 may rank as one of the better pull stations ever produced.
Found a horn/strobe on ebay, is this a good one?
Yes! That is a great deal for a new SpectrAlert Classic. Act quickly or it probably will be sold pretty fast.
Ok! One problem, now to convince my dad to let me borrow his credit card, of course I’d pay him back in cash. So far my parents don’t know what to think about this fire alarm thing. Although I should be able to convince him to let own some, he said we can talk about this whole fire alarm thing on Friday because i don’t have school that day.
I’ll update you guys as I get more information.
-Josh