Heat Detector Test

I am a brand new hobbyist, and I dont know how to test my heat detector. I dont have a model number on it, but it looks exactly like the image below. I am not sure if I need to stick something in or use a magnet. Any instructions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

We need the model number. It will tell me what it set off at.

Thats a System Sensor BK-5602. More info on this website: http://www.homesecuritystore.com/system-sensor-bk-5602

That’s actually a member of the System Sensor 5600 series… it is not a specific type.

You can tell based on what is written on the bottom of the detector:
Nothing = 5601P (If it were to have anything written on it then it would say “135F/57C FX/ROR”)
“194F/90C FX/ROR” = 5602
“135F/57C FX” = 5603
“194F/90C FX” = 5604

There’s also a few more models which I did not include because you can’t tell them apart when the detector is installed on the ceiling.

In order to test one of these, you have to use a heat source such as a hair dryer, and you can only test the models with “ROR” on them (the 5601P or the 5602). Use the low heat setting and apply heat to the detector away from the center disc (more to the side) about 6 inches away. Remove the heat as soon as you hear the alarm sound.

Here’s one of many I saw at my condo in Myrtle Beach. Notice, like Andrew said, this one says FX/ROR towards the back, and 194F/90C towards the front, thus making this one 5602:
DSCN5427 by 4j25Sirens, on Flickr

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Thank you very much! I am glad to say that it is working and have tested it 3 times. I am a beginner so I really have no idea what I am doing. Thanks again!

Did you test it without a panel? Can you do that with heat/smoke detectors?

Mechanical hear detectors do not require a panel and act as a simple NO switch in most cases.

If it’s a conventional device you can, there will be two normally open terminals on it you just have to measure with a meter to see if they are open or closed. (closed means they are in alarm)

Nice install work! Guess nobody has heard of Wiremold?

^ Some hate wire mold(guilty)… :roll:

There may be a code limitation preventing the use of wire mold. Conduit is the most common enclosure for out-of-wall wiring anyways.

Wiremold isn’t allowed in a lot of jurisdictions and I’ve never seen it OK’d in any specifications by any major architect, consultant, or engineering firm in commercial or industrial buildings. They’d rather see conduit stub ups to 7’ and plenum the rest of the way, or 100% conduit.

It’s not allowed to be concealed per code whereas conduit you can route through fire rated walls, and it’s not permitted in locations where it may be damaged which eliminates a lot of uses for it. To each his own, but I’d rather have slightly bent conduit than wire mold.

I really didn’t mean to hijack this guy’s thread, so if someone wants to split this off that’s fine. I just find it funny how whoever installed this didn’t think about using a round back box for the round detector! And turn the conduit 180 degrees so the lettering doesn’t show! Maybe it was specified to use gray conduit and waterproof boxes (although the detector isn’t rated waterproof so why the box), still think it could of been done a little more professional looking. Too much sloppy work out there - have SOME pride in what you do! Heat the conduit up and put a nice little offset into it instead of using that strap to force the conduit tight. Plus, they’ve compromised the “waterproof” box by drilling holes in the back to attach it to the ceiling - notice the lack of screws in the ears.

As for the Wiremold… agreed, to each his own. I’ve seen it used on some upscale residential retrofits with AHJ approval, specifically for running a smoke detectors in hallways. Usually very short lengths of 2’ or so to bring the wire out of a soffit and to the detector in the middle of the ceiling. But yeah, wouldn’t use it for the entire install, for firewall penetrations, or even vertical runs.

I also question the use of a 194 degree heat detector - I’m assuming it’s in an outside residential corridor. 135 degrees is hot enough - if that ceiling is getting so hot that they have to put in a high temperature heat detector they’ve got problems! Sprinkler heads in low hazard residential environments pop at 155-165 degrees, you always want your automatic detection to activate before the sprinkler system.

OR! Or or or… It was OUTSIDE… XD (It was :roll: )