Help with new panel:

So, I finally got a panel! It is a Simplex 4002 conventional (I think) panel. This will be a topic where I can ask questions if needed. I would like someone who is experienced in a alarms to hopefully help me out with getting started with it. I also wouldn’t mind if someone went through the pictures and told me if 1: Anything is missing 2: Things I should connect to other things (via ribbon cable, there was a lot just sitting inside) 3: Anything I should take off and 4: Any dip switches I should change. So I’m assuming the input to the panel is 120VAC, and the output is 24VDC. Another thing, can this panel do coding? Like march time or something. I do note that I will need 24V batteries and that I should NOT connect them before the 120VAC supply, and I should not disconnect them after 120VAC power is off. And another question: If I only want to use the panel occasionally for now, is unplugging it and plugging it back in okay or not? And that’s it. What I’m gonna do is for a while just have it sit on the floor where I can make little demo systems without hooking it up on the wall. I will do that eventually as well though. As a side note, I also got some other devices. Other than the N/A’s, can someone tell me things about them? For example, what is that weird circuit thing with the long red button? And, what can I use that Notifier thing for? And finally, are the System Sensor 100 series smokes addressable? I know this is long, but does anyone have a manual for this panel? And also, I need to know how to wire up the smokes. Anyways, thanks!

(Sorry about the bad wording, I was excited and also really don’t want to damage my panel! :stuck_out_tongue: )

DSCN6801 by 4j25Sirens, on Flickr

DSCN6802 by 4j25Sirens, on Flickr

DSCN6803 by 4j25Sirens, on Flickr

DSCN6804 by 4j25Sirens, on Flickr

DSCN6805 by 4j25Sirens, on Flickr

DSCN6806 by 4j25Sirens, on Flickr

DSCN6807 by 4j25Sirens, on Flickr

DSCN6808 by 4j25Sirens, on Flickr

(The Integrity came like that :frowning: )
DSCN6809 by 4j25Sirens, on Flickr

You have a 4002 conventional hard wired panel. I labeled the boards on the picture below. It has been a while since I have seen one of these but the resistor I drew the red box around, I do not think is standard equipment. Is that connected or just dropped in there? I don’t have one to look at right now.

I pointed out where to connect the 40 pin ribbon from the top row. As noted it should go to the right. Be very sure it is plugged in correctly :!: Get it wrong and bad things happen.

You don’t need the network card, but I do not see an internal communications cable going to it so it is seems to be already disconnected.

You can power it up and down as needed. Don’t use the transformer plug! I see it is already burnt a little. Get a line cord and disconnect at the wall socket.

There are some little 10 pin ribbon cable headers at the top of the CPU and zone cards. Look at them closely to make sure none of the pins is bent and touching another. The wrong ones touching can let the smoke out of stuff.

I don’t know what the circuit board is. The long red button thing is a circuit breaker.

The system will do march time or temporal by dip switch programming.

The chip I outlined in green is an ESP (Expanded Simplex Programming) chip that allows custom programming. That can be done on the front panel using the alarm and trouble LEDs. That will teach you binary. There was a module and software that allowed computer programming. Those modules are very hard to find. Haven’t been made in many years. Due to the slow CPU in the 4002, nothing faster than a 25 MHz 486 will connect to the panel. Everything newer is too fast.

The addressable smokes will not work on a 4002.

I will see what documentation I can dig up.

Never mind about the resistor. I just found a picture in some stuff and it is part of the board. It does look bent out of position though.

Nice grab! Just remember, BLOW IT OUT! METAL DUST COULD KILL IT!

Thanks for all the info so far! Now some responses:
(Read picture captions, I did resize, hopefully )

Top picture of harness.
It looks like it was cut. Was it?
Can you find the other half?
What is the part number on the white tag?
It may be a spare and not needed.

Middle picture if DIP switches.
Check your private messages.

Bottom picture of 40 pin ribbon.
Be sure all the pins on the card are nice and straight.
Make sure you plug in both rows.

The other end of the harness is coming out of the transformer. Also, does that transformer look safe to use? Then, can I just use a 120VAC cable to power the panel, and if so where do I hook it up to. Or do I have to hardwire the panel. And can I change the dip switches while the panel has power hooked up?

From what I can see in the pictures I think I see two cut wires hanging there that look like they are going to the transformer. One black and one white. There is a black wire and white wire going to the 8 pin plug with the gray, red, yellow, and brown wires. Are the black and white wires in the transformer harness cut? If yes, it looks like someone modified the transformer connection. Those black and white wires are the 120 VAC connection to the transformer primary. I see the plug looks burnt. Maybe the plug burned and lost the power connection and other connections were made to power the transformer.

Normally the transformer primary is powered through the 8 pin plug. 120 VAC is connected to the little terminal strip right next to the 8 pin socket on the circuit board. You will see something like NEUT (for neutral - white conductor in the 120VAC circuit) and 120 (120 VAC hot side - black conductor in the 120 VAC circuit). Regardless of how the transformer is powered, the terminal strip still needs power connected for the brownout circuit.

I think this is someone’s jerry-rig to avoid replacing parts.

Yes, the switches can be changed while powered up. However, the system “reads” the switch settings when the RESET button is pushed. That is when the changes take place.

Okay thanks. Also, I forgot, the model number on the black and white harness is225813 I think. I also found a similar cable, red and black, but only two socket plug things.will I need to get a replacement for the burnt plug? And where do the black and white wires go. Thanks!

I had another thought. I wonder if the transformer primary wires were cut by whoever was taking the system out to disable it. You could try putting the transformer harness back together with butt splices or wire nuts. The connector might be good. This is 120 volts AC so get help if you are not sure of what you are doing. You could get a nasty shock if this is not done correctly. Or blow your panel up.

Does the red and black cable have a plug that fits the connector shown with the red arrow in the picture? That is the battery connection and you have at least some of the battery harness. The most important part - the part that plugs into the board. More wire can be added and battery tab connectors added.

Unfortunately, the battery cable will not plug into that connector.

So, do you think I’ll need a new 6 pin connector? The othe coming from the transformer. Also, those black and white wires coming from the transformer, I found the other end. They are coming from said 6 pin connector. And I’d also like to know where the nacs and IDCs are.

As I said in a previous post, the connector may be good. The wires might have been cut because someone without knowledge of a Simplex 4002 panel was taking it out of service and did not know how to disconnect it, so just cut the hot (black wire) and the neutral (white wire). Electricians do that sometimes.

What would I do? I would put the wires back together and see if it works. Possibly the connector is good. The burned look comes from the arc that happens when someone powers the panel down or powers the panel up using the transformer plug. THAT IS INCORRECT! NEVER DO THAT!

It will not hurt anything to put the harness back together and try it. It will either work or it will not. Replacing that plug could take some time and effort. Those are Molex brand MiniFit Jr. parts. They are available from supply houses on line. It takes special tools to attach the connector pins to the wires. But why not try it first?

As I said in a previous post, if you are unsure about repairing these connections, GET HELP from someone who has experience.

I sent you links to 2 documents. The first is the Installation and Operating Instructions for the 4002 panel. Read that all the way through. Then read it again. That document has a lot of good information about your panel.

The second document link I sent is the Field Wiring Diagrams for 4002. It has all the diagrams on how to connect the IDCs, NACs, AUX relays, and other circuits. I know it is an intimidating looking document, but only a few pages will apply to your system.
Diagram page 7 shows the connections for IDCs on the CPU and eight zone expansion cards.
Diagram page 13 shows the connections for NACs on the CPU and expansion signal cards.
Diagram page 16 shows the axillary relay connections for the CPU and expansion relay card.
Diagram page 22 shows the connections for AC power and batteries.

Study up on the installation instructions and field wiring diagrams. Then ask questions. I am glad to help on this but you have to put some effort into this too.

Sorry to bring up an older post, but I have a legit question. Would it be okay to power this panel with a two prong NON polarized cord?

For a hobby system a 2 wire non polarized cord will work OK. Without the ground pin you will not have a ground reference for the ground fault sensing circuit or the on board transient protection.

Of course in a live system in a building a 3 wire dedicated circuit is required to be hard wired to the panel.

Could any skilled fire alarm people skype me maybe? I have the panel on but am having some trouble with it.

Sorry - no skype. What kind of trouble?

Hi. Here is a video detailing @4j25’s problem.

Do you know if there could possibly be something wrong with the panel? I am friends with @4j25 and am also interested in seeing the panel working.