Sorry for double post(Couldn’t edit and I thought of something…) but: Couldn’t he just use a resistor to cap it off?
Ccs46 said: No not enough Ampere-hours or voltage. Even if it did work it wouldn’t last very long.
Okay, but it would last long enough for the panel to stay on without av power for how long? And what about 18V?
No, the resistor could just blow…
No, don’t do it. Panels have a charging circuit that would destroy a typical battery and cause damage back to the panel.
No, no, no, no, no! Do not, I repeat, DO NOT attempt to hook a 9v battery to that panel! Life safety panels are only designed for rechargeable sealed lead acid batteries, which a 9v battery is not. The panel with either trickle-charge or float-charge (to be honest, I don’t know the difference. Can someone enlighten me?) the battery as long as it’s installed so that when power goes out, it can keep the system running, and then when power comes back, the system can recharge the battery. 9v batteries are not designed for that and will probably explode if attempted to jury-rig into a panel. Also, those batteries literally do not have the voltage or current required to satisfy the battery trouble even if the thing doesn’t explode.
Older panels, like the Notifier SGL-1000, have the option to resistor off the battery connectors if you don’t want to use a battery, but NFPA 72 pretty much requires the use of backup batteries now.
Remember, these are life safety devices, not toys!
You beat me to it… lol.
As Nick and Robert said: Panels have a circuit that charges the battery. It could cause damage to the panel. Might last a few minutes. Theres the 10% rule but still 18 volts is a bit too much. Just my $0.02 but I think you should sell this panel and save up for a real panel that can do what you want it to do. Thats what I would do atleast.
I said WITHOUT 120v applied to the main panel, not with… Unless there is no difference… So could I just use a 12v 1A power supply WITHOUT the main power?
sigh … Am I the only one who thinks that people just don’t like to listen to me? Well, let me tell you something, I HAD TO DEAL WITH THAT AT SCHOOL… I don’t want it to travel with me at home. And I said WITHOUT the main power supplied… Answers anyone?
Calm down and try not to use GIANT TEXT AND ALL CAPS pls kthx.
No, you cannot power up a panel with a 12V power supply. The correct way to power up a panel is with 120V from either a wall socket (recommended for hobbyists) or a hardwired breaker (if it is to be professionally installed), along with battery backup. Anything else would violate code.
I would also suggest selling this panel and save up for a “new” one on eBay. Having never owned a panel I can’t make any personal recommendations but the Fire-Lite MS-5UD is a good start.
Again, REALLY expensive… Besides, my panel was only worth $70 so, an MS-5UD will have to wait… Why not ask NewAgeServer what panel can I get with $70?
Im sorry to say but you can’t get a panel for $70. These things are made with a specific purpose so they are kinda expensive. If you watch ebay panels do come up for around 100. I would also recomend posting the listing here so we can examine it to make sure your not getting ripped off. That has happened to many users on here.
I see, I won’t be able to make $100 in one day, I also don’t feel like waiting MORE THAN 2 MONTHS to make $100 (My birthday is on June 27th, btw…) I don’t want to over price my panel, it’s not worth it, anyway…
Starting up a panel on battery power without mains voltage will actually cause damage even if you have the correct batteries installed. you always need to apply 120VAC first before connecting the batteries.
We are trying to listen to you. We are attempting to give you all the option for what you have and what you want to do. I understand your frustration; sometimes we get these ideas in our head of what we want something to do, and when we are told it can’t be done, its frustrating.
Your panel can be used as a fire alarm panel if you use it properly. A few notification appliances and a pull station/dry-contact input is all a hobbyist needs anyway, especially a beginner like you.
You are totally right in that $70 wont get you far for a decent panel. If you are willing to step outside of true fire alarm panels, such as security with the option of fire input zones, you can get a lot more functionality for VERY cheap. Personally, I would recommended a DMP XR-x00 series panel that has a known programming lockout code. I have personal experience with an XR-500 both in a real installation and as one of the panels on my alarm demonstration board (same unit actually :lol: ) and I would be happy to help you locate one and program it. They are extremely powerful panels that could really support your hobby as you grow, and whenever you are ready you could either replace or supplement it with a true FACP.
I forgot to mention that! Thank you!
… Well, I guess I’ll just close this subject as UNSOLVED! 
I’m just at an entire loss… I just don’t know what to do… So, I’ll just stop typing and close this subject.
Of course it will have to wait, that’s what saving is all about! I can tell you now that Andrew won’t really have much of a list of panels you can buy with $70 or less, because very, very few panels come that cheap. Even for an MS-2, you’re looking at $100, minimum.
Okay… Makes sens, but I am still at a loss… Any suggestions, anyone?
I will answer this question. Running the panel on just the battery, or a power supply substituting for the battery, without 120 VAC connected will not clear the trouble.
Fire alarm equipment is required to have 2 power sources. Both of those power sources have to be monitored and the panel is required to report trouble if either is missing.
With 120 VAC connected but not having a battery connected the panel is required to report trouble.
With battery connected and without having 120 VAC connected the panel is required to report trouble.
Simple enough.
It’s technically an either/or situation… Okay?
To be completely technically correct it is an “and” situation. To clear a power trouble on a panel it must have both the primary power (120 VAC) and the secondary power (fully charged 12 volt battery). If either is missing the panel is required by code to report trouble.
Well, it’s an OR situation if I want to see the panel in action without the 120V applied… Okay?