I’m sure that helped you, but it didn’t for me, I don’t have any of the special equipment for that, but first requirements are first, I need a 5230 touchpad so that way, if it tries to call the FD or whatever, it won’t, I’ll have it programmed to call my home, again, if possible, but I need a way to make sure that it doesn’t call the FD, but my home phone… any ideas, anyone? Plus, I seem to be at square 2. We’re doing great!
No, I first get a battery trouble, like normal, and after a while, it gives me the dialer fault…
If the L6 & L7 LEDs are not illuminated, and the “Dialer Fault” LED is, more then likely the panel still has phone numbers in the programming and it is trying to dial out. There is nothing you can do until you get the 5230 keypad and reprogram the panel. And hope that whoever last programmed the panel didn’t change the installers code!
Even if you get the touchpad, be aware that if the default installer codes have been changed (a very likely occurance), you will not be able to get into programming and change the dial-out to your home phone, unless there’s a backdoor that I don’t know about.
I understand that this subject has been inactive for a while, and I’m certain that whis reply would be considered bumping, but just a quick heads-up on the results and other stuff about my 5104B:
It thinks it has a working phone line, however, I got the panel factory defaulted, so this could most likely be why the bell circuit has no voltage, and I don’t think it has any phone numbers programmed. Everyone keeps saying that I can’t program the panel to call a personal number (Shut up about it already, do you own a 5104B? So how do you know? Sorry, I didn’t want to be mean about it, people just keep saying that, so now I’m going to stop asking about programming the phone numbers.) I STILL don’t have a 5230. I have most of the panel figured out.
The panel is perfectly capable of calling any number you stick into it. However, it will not operate correctly until it dials out to a receiver equipped with the proper report formats. I believe the 5104B can transmit Contact ID, SIA, Radionics, and several other formats. This is not the same as a standard telephone call, so it just would not work with a regular phone. Just to clarify that for you.
As for your other comments, we collectively here on the board have many users with extensive knowledge of fire alarm equipment. We do not need to have a unit sitting in front of us to know what it can and cannot do. I think you comments are very disrespectful to the people who assisted you during the first run of this topic, especially those with career experience or those who went sifting through manuals and datasheets to find information on the subject for you.
We are happy to help. We were happy to help you the first time. Just keep it cool, be respectful, and don’t try deny the answers we give you because you aren’t pleased with them.
As for the 5230, those seem to be very expensive to acquire. You will need to weigh the rewards of programming your panel and ironing out the issues, versus the risk of spending a great deal of money on a panel that is likely toast, or being shut out by a changed installer code.
i’ve probably put in over 100 though, and as i said before, it’s just a dialer… so every single one was mounted next to an actual fire alarm panel. :roll:
you can have it dial any number, but unless you have one of these on the end of the other line, you won’t get anywhere:
Thanks for the link, but my Xbox doesn’t like .pdf files, I wish I still had my iPad, but the internet up here in my office (I live in a two-story duplex) is terrible with everything except my Xbox, so what is it?
Thank you for the pin-points. I understand what I did wrong, and I would like to apologize for that. So really, my panel’s supervisory zone (Zone 1) works, the Acc. terminals work, It’s a 12V panel, and it thinks it’s hooked up to a phone line, and that is EXACTLY all that I know about it.
It is a link to the datasheet for a monitoring center receiver unit like the one I mentioned in my post.
I appreciate your willingness to make amends. Thank you.
The phone line isn’t entirely essential for the panel to operate, though being a dialer rather than a full control panel still inhibits its functionality. You should still be able to hook up devices to the zones and outputs and have them operate without the presence of the phone line, but I remember you saying that the outputs weren’t functioning. Would you mind re-explaining what you have told us the status of the panels outputs, and possibly take some more measurements, such as output voltage in supervisory and alarm conditions, so that we can get back to you on that? I believe there was a tech several months ago who had a similar problem with outputs not activating on a dialer, I will have to look back at that topic and see how it was resolved for him.
Most certainly (Spoiler alert! In the end, I’m going to do a “rant” about what I’m thinking)
The bell circuit puts out little to no voltage at all, like, period, Despite the fact that I’ve tricked the panel into thinking it’s hooked up to a working phone line, it still gives me a dialer failed condition, I’m unable to program it until I get a 5230, I’m fairly certain that I got it factory defaulted, and that is EXACTLY all that I know about it right now.
Now for the “rant”! While looking at all of the stuff I got quoted on, I feel like I sound like an idiot. I also find your icon funny.
There is an option within the programming that disables notification appliance circuit supervision. I am not certain, but this could potentially cut the supervisory power to the NAC completely so it can support non-polarized devices. On the other hand, it could very well keep voltage at the terminals and just “ignore” supervision on that circuit. Have you tested the terminals both in an alarm condition and during supervisory mode? I will just mention to be very careful when performing this test to avoid further damage to the panel or injury to yourself. In addition, have you double checked the position of the silence/reset button? If your panel has the button extender installed it could easily become jammed.
The dialer fault will not go away unless it is actually connected to a working phone line and monitored by a central station receiver, which you will not be able to do. Most panels offer the option to be configured as a “local only” system to disable the phone line outputs, but being as this is a dedicated communicator and its sole purpose is communicating to a central station, the 5104B does not have this option.
Yes and not exactly, I first need to know if this panel supports incandesant lights, other than that, I’m pretty sure that the bell circuit won’t work until I am able to turn “Relay Alarm” on. I never said anything about the silence/reset button, but it is in the top right side of the panel between the first and second knockouts on the right side, it does have an extender, it’s between terminal blocks 3 and 2, it hasn’t jammed on me YET.
Incandescent lights sometimes don’t play nice with modern fire alarm panels. I personally wouldn’t try one on any of my panels, so you may want to hold off on using one. A small electronic horn would be better suited for this panel, since the NAC is only able to supply 500mA anyways. There are re-settable poly fuses on the board that should prevent damage in case of an overcurrent, but it is good practice not to rely on components like this to catch mistakes.
All I have are 24-volt devices, my 2903-9001 can support 12 volts, I’ll need to know which 24 volt devices I can use with a 12 volt panel, should I give you a list of devices I have?
Sure, if there’s any that will work on 12V I’ll let you know. There are many devices that are designed to operate both on 24V and 12V systems, however if they are only 24V nominal 12V can damage their circuitry, so as always be careful. A lot are actually something in the range of 18.2V-32.1V but that isn’t important here, 24V is the standard given voltage for devices with ranges like that.
Okay, here are all of my NA’s, all run on 24 volts, only one can run on 12 volts (That’s the incandesant light:
Wheelock:
RSS-2415W-FW
WST-24 (just your typical one, white lens with red fire lettering, red plate, nothing special.)
AS-24MCC-FW
CH-DF1-24-LSM
Simplex:
4904-9171 TrueAlert remote strobe (I know it doesn’t say TrueAlert on it, but but bear with me, it might be a QuickAlert)
4904-9301 Sync strobe (I thought it was free-run, I had to learn the hard way, apparently)
2903-9001 Light Plate (the 12 volt incandesant light)
2902-9732 LifeAlarm Speaker (has NOTHING to do with the panel, but it’s one of my NA’s, came with my 2903 light plate)
Gentex:
SHG24-15/75WR (Horn broke off of it’s wires, still runs fine. Jumper leads 1, 2, and 4 do stuff, so what does the third one do?)
It would be cool if I had a commander 4 and a System Sensor Spectralert Advance P2W or PC2W, because they support 12/24 volts.
