Unless there are devices connected to the zones that are in alarm or an incorrect EOLR value (too low) connected the red display on the left side should be off. That is to indicate active alarm conditions only.
I’ve checked all pull stations and there are no lights on on any of the smoke detectors. Wonder what I need to do to clear that? would you like me to video my panel and upload to youtube?
Did you test the panel with just 6.8K EOLRs (no devices) connected to the IDCs? If so, what result?
This is what it should look like with IDCs resistored out and no batteries.
Can you snap me a picture of your DIODES… where are they in the board above
Can you snap me a picture of your DIODES… where are they in the board above
Doides? Are you asking about connections to the terminal strip in the top of the picture. No diodes up there - only resistors. Or somewhere else on the board.
Terminal strip photo. To the left are two 10K for the NACs and to the right are two 6.8K for the IDCs. When I put this together I didn’t have any 6.8K handy but I had lots of 3.3K. Two 3.3K in series is 6.6K which was close enough.
PM sent with 4004 documentation links.
Thanks so MUCH!!! I’ll work on this today!!!
I don’t know what was connected to this panel when it was in service. There could have been relays connected to the general alarm outputs or the zone outputs. Those relays would have diodes across the coils to prevent back EMF from spiking the panel.
The best way to test the panel is to disconnect everything. Then put on the four resistors in my picture. That will give the true results on if the board is good or failed.
How do I completely reset a board. I looked through the manuals and am quite confused.
To perform a routine reset you simply press the RESET button. You will have to Acknowledge the presence of abnormal conditions by using the ACK button before the system can be reset. Since each condition is Acknowledged individually, you will need to press this button multiple times until all conditions are acknowledged. The membrane keys on the 4004 can be finicky, so press hard and hold the button until the panel responds.
To perform a hard reset of the board, power cycle the panel as you have in the past. This will most likely cause the panel to restart in a normal condition as if it was just installed, until the troubles register again. However, some panels store alarm information in non-volatile memory and will continue to display the alarm after power has been restored. I believe the 4004 does not exhibit this behavior, but be aware.
There is not a “master reset” or “return to factory default” procedure in a 4004.
Page 3-9 in the manual shows how a 4004 is delivered from the factory.
Be aware it also says>
The program switch is ignored if there are alarm conditions in the panel.
If your panel is going into alarm at power up with only the EOLRs connected you can try setting the PROG switch to ON before powering up the panel. However, if the panel is going into alarm at power up with only the EOLRs connected (numbers showing in the red LED display), the board is probably damaged.
You guys are awesome… thanks, getting some resistors to duplicate what you have and will start from scratch. I want to dedicate 4 brain hours to this tonight.
Okay, awesome, so I let the board power down for a few days now and bam, I put the 3.3k’s and 10k’s like you stated and BAM! I have the same panel. Now to figure out where all these wires go.
I recommend you reconnect the field wiring circuits one-by-one and check the panel for normal operation after each circuit is reconnected. That way, it will allow you narrow down which circuit, if any, are still causing problems.
When you say you “have the same panel” does that that mean with just the end of line resistors connected you have a clear panel other than a battery trouble?
Did you test the panel in that condition to see if it works? Short across an IDC resistor and the panel should go into alarm and turn on the NACs. Ack, signal silence, and reset should work and return the panel to normal. Do all these functions work?
What do “all these wires” connect to on the other end?
I duplicated your picture and have no trouble codes. I have (1) Pull stations… which I believe go to one of the NAC’s and I also have the Alarm which I believe goes to the Other NAC. Then I have 2 Zones. I hook up both zones leaving the other stuff off and only zone one is alarming. Zone one is 8 rooms and the hallway. I also have a magnetic locking doorway which has very low voltage going to it because I think its in Alarm Mode. I guess I need to go through all the rooms and verify everything is hooked up right. Zone 2 has no problems.
Looks like progress s being made. I think you are mixing up some of the terms. Pull stations, smoke detectors, and other alarm making devices connect to Initiating Device Circuits (IDC) or called sometimes zones. NAC is short for Notification Appliance Circuit which is where the horns and strobes connect.
Check the area that is Zone 1 for stations that might be pulled or damaged. There also could be a smoke detector in alarm somewhere. Don’t know what type pull stations you have. If they are the Simplex plastic T-bar stations these can be damaged if someone tries to stop an alarm after the station is pulled by pushing the T-bar back up. That either breaks off the plastic button on the switch inside or breaks the parts holding the T-bar in place.