We figured it out. The termination points at the end of each run were terminated with too low of a resistor. We changed to higher resistor and it cleared both alarms. Now we just have the magnetic door wires to hook up.
We have 2 doors that have magnetic pulls on them
We also have a Mouser??? Potter and Brumfiled KHAU-17d1124 unit.
I had pictures of where stuff went, but my phone died and I got a replacement.
I have 2 black cables and 2 white cables coming off it. One of the white cables is going to a red cable which itself has a black cable next to it. So I don’t know where to place these.
I take it these are magnetic door holders that are used to keep doors open until there is an alarm and then release. Voltage is fed to the door holder magnetic coil continuously until there is an alarm. Then the fire alarm panel activates a relay to interrupt the power to the door holders. Then if all the door hardware is good, the door closes.
The number you posted is for a 24 volt DC relay. This is probably being used to control the power to the door holders.
Does it look like this?
[attachment=1]KHU-17D11-24 relay.jpg[/attachment]
Usually these are in sockets like this. Is yours?
[attachment=0]27E894 socket.jpg[/attachment]
Picure 3: Unit with wires that were on it when I got it in the exact location
Picture 2: Pins, the blue pinned white wire was attached to the Red (I believe)
Picture 1: The panel as it sits in perfect condition - No resistors on the panel
OMG, what a nasty looking rig! That relay should be in a socket. Whoever did that was not a professional. Now I understand your question about diodes.
In the picture where you are holding the relay, the black wires are connected to the relay coil. The white wires are connected to a normally closed contact. To operate the relay on alarm one black wire connects to AUX+ and the other to AUX ALM (the 9th terminal). There has to be a diode across the relay coil to prevent it from spiking the panel. The white banded end of the diode goes to the positive. That can be connected at the terminal strip between the same terminals as the relay coil. Obviously the diode needs an extension wire on one end.
In the picture where you are holding the wires, do these go to the door holders? If so, one of them goes to AUX- (2nd terminal). The other connects to one of the white wires on the relay. The other white wire goes to AUX+ so the door holders get 24 volts that is switched through the normally closed contact on the relay. Depending on the age of the door holders they may need a diode across them too. That one connects across the wires leaving the panel to the door holders. Again, white band end goes to the positive.
One thing I notice is that NAC2 has nothing connected. In that condition it should show trouble. Does it?
I would draw a picture to upload but some parts of the internet are going so slow for me it would be difficult to upload.
ok, I tried to read and read again and remember I’m foreign to this stuff. I think I did as you said and yes I get a F code on the Nac 2. I think it needs a Diode.
NAC 2 needs a 10,000 ohm resistor connected to clear the F code trouble, not a diode.
And a wire nut on that wire joint.
The wire from the relay coil should not be connected to ZONE 1 AUX. It should move left to terminal 9. Connected as it is now the doors would only close on an alarm in ZONE 1. If ZONE 2 goes into alarm the doors would not close. The doors should close on general alarm.
[attachment=1]relay wiring.png[/attachment]
A diode is needed across that relay coil to prevent it from spiking the panel. That could cause unwanted restarts or worse permanent damage. Below is an oscilloscope photo of an unsuppressed 24 volt DC relay turning off. Notice it produced a -240 volt spike.
[attachment=0]relay coil turn off spike.png[/attachment]
I take it that the “System” LED is the “System TBL” LED. This information is from the manual.
AC Power LED
Green LED. When lit steady, it indicates that the panel is
receiving AC power that is within the specified range. If
this LED is not lit and the panel is still functioning, this
indicates that the panel is using battery power to operate.
Make sure to notify the building’s facility management
immediately if this occurs.
System Trouble LED
Flashes until acknowledged when any trouble occurs in
the panel. Changes from flashing to on steady to indicate
an acknowledged trouble.
Either the system has lost AC power or has an internal failure which most likely requires a board replacement and reprogram. An authorized technician should be called in to troubleshoot the system.