Wheelock RSS-24MCCR aquired

Not everyday you get to see one of these.
A

It looks like my Siemens-rebranded E60 but with no speaker holes

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It essentially is the remote strobe version of the E60 (heck it was probably meant for use with them! (which might be why you never see them since you never really see E60s either). Excellent job acquiring such a rare device!


i see u @TheCarson116

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Okay, so? That’s just a standard function of the site you know (unless you’re referring to me often replying to any new topics regardless of, well, topic).

So your saying my E60 is also uncommon in a sense? Also the NS-24MCC looks like that too but it’s a H/S version.

I believe not many enthusiasts in general have seen voice systems with E60s (except maybe for the Siemens rebrands), so yeah I guess.

Ah yes: all three have basically the exact same design as each other, with the only difference being what kind of device they are.

Okay I’m happy in a sense, but as of recently when I applied three 9V batteries to my E60 strobe it appears to not be flashing anymore, albeit acting very weak. I think it’s broken, or is it just me and the batteries are crappy?

If you have a multimeter you can test the batteries to see if they’re still holding a charge: if not try with different batteries if you can (& if that’s still not it then something with the strobe may indeed be messed up).

I don’t have no multimeter. And I’ve been using Super Heavy Duty batteries to power the strobe. Iirc it happened right after I accidentally connected the negative wire first, whereas I usually do positive first.

Hmm…as far as I know a fairly brief instance of polarity reversal wouldn’t kill the average device, so I’m not sure what could be wrong. Have you tried taking a look at your E60’s strobe potentiometer? (which is inside the back of the strobe body: be sure to let the strobe rest without any power for some time before taking it apart though, & be very careful while taking it off the speaker so as not to damage it as well) I’ve known Wheelock strobes to not flash at all if the potentiometer is turned down all the way.

Thanks! I saw it on eBay for like 29 Dollars and couldn’t turn down an opportunity to get something rare in my collection. Ironically, I got this the day I got my Fire Alarm Lot so I got Rare Alarms 2 Days in a row lol.

Oh, okay I will look into it later. Thanks for the advice. I meant to say I connected the negative to the negative wire first then put the positive terminal after

A mere $29 huh? What a steal for such an uncommon device! (though given prices these days maybe any device in general, heh)

Oh? Cool!

Sure thing!

I kinda meant to say I connected the negative terminal to the negative first then connected the positive after. Just in case you didn’t get that.

Well I replied to your last message before you edited it to include that, so no, I didn’t see that until just now. That’s the correct way to wire any device though (as the “A to A & B to B” “pattern” would clue one into).

Well like I said, I will investigate. That kind of gives me a bit of comfort knowing it may be just the silly potentiometer.

I also noticed a faint light where it’s supposed to be flashing at the same speed, so is the potentiometer supposed to control the power or voltage of the sort of the strobe?

i was joking lol. that was a joke

Alright: best of luck!

That might be an indication that something with the strobe tube is busted & preventing it from flashing at full brightness, as I have a TrueAlert that does the same thing. As for the second part, the potentiometer controls the flash speed (how exactly I don’t know but yeah).

Oh, okay.

The tube? What with the tube do you think could be wrong? Does that mean it’s broken?