This is a regular notifier nbg 10 I don’t see any dip switches
I am referring to the programming DIP switches on the panel.
The manual does indicate what the factory settings for each DIP switch are. If I were you, I would try setting them all back to factory settings in order to avoid any errors caused by having the panel unintentionally programmed to do something different than you want it to do.
All of them are turned off except selective silence, temporal coding, and Wheelock/system sensor sync
Go ahead an turn ALL of the switches off and see if the problem still persists. What alarm(s) do you have connected to the panel and how do you have them wired up?
Right now I have a notifier nbg 10 (so far, I’m working one zone at a time) which has resistors on the zone terminals on the panel. There are wires going from the zone terminals on the panel to the terminals on the station. A Wheelock ns 24mcw with a resistor on the nac on the panel with positive/negative terminals on the panel going to positive/negative terminals on horn strobe. Another set of wires going from the 2 ns terminals to a system sensor spectrAlert Classic horn strobe
I would try removing either the Spectra or the NS and working with just one brand of alarm at a time - you can only have one sync protocol programmed at a time on the panel, and having non-compatible devices with the sync protocol on the NAC can make it so that the signal’s don’t work correctly.
Let me just ask you this question - you said that when you applied the 24VDC of power to the zones (when you said the zone trouble lights went off) that the system went into alarm. Did the alarms actually sound when this happened?
Yes, I have also done multiple walk tests. The signals themselves work great. I am aware now of the sync protocol but I am having trouble with the idcs
At the time I had my ns hooked up to my new Siemens U mmt s75, it scared the heck out of me, it is extremely loud
Unfortunately, I’m out of ideas as to what could be going wrong with the zones. Keep in mind though that I don’t have a ton of experience in-person with this panel so trying to diagnose what could be going wrong based on my limited past experiences / online instruction manuals / etc. could definitely lead me to not recognize a potential issue.
What unfortunately could have happened is that your incorrect wiring could have destroyed the zones on your panel and there’s nothing you can do to fix it now. 
Going back to a previous post in this topic:
It could have been that or something else, but something like this is really starting to look like it’s what happened.
I don’t think I did because as soon as I got it and wired it up correctly, it was still flashing trouble but thanks for your help! 
Well keep in mind that when you first received it, it didn’t have resistors, etc. hooked up, so there could have been a trouble originating from that. That’s one of the issues with panels such as the MS-2, is that they don’t give a lot of information about a true beyond a blinking light.
Yeah, it’s annoying and very limited. I think that there is no power current coming from the zones, because even if I connected a 9 volt batterie to the pull station, the trouble light went off on that zone but then the fire alarm light started flashing on that zone and the horn strobes went off
PM me, maybe we could set up a way of fixing the boards components 
What do you mean?
Why the hell would you connect a nine volt battery to it? Only the zone wires! In the best case scenario, the 9V just closed the circuit on the zone, activating it, but putting any external power on a panel terminal is almost sure to damage something.
What you need to do is disconnect everything. Then place the resistors on the panel terminals, so they are the only thing connected to them. Then power up your panel and see what happens. You should be using 4.7 K, ½ watt resistors. Without any field wiring, that narrows the trouble down to the PCB board itself. if that is damaged, the panel is no good. Like U8oLO said, set all of the DIP switches to OFF. This disables any extra features and brings the panel back to its simplest operating mode.
By the way, just curious, how have you been powering this panel? AC Power, or just a battery? Using just a battery is a huge no-no unless the panel is specifically designed with a “battery start” jumper to bypass the charging circuit at power up.
I’ve been using an extension cord with a ground on it
I do not believe the panel is damaged and I have the proper resistors
Have you attempted to power it up with only the resistors on the terminals? If it still gives troubles most likely it is damaged.
The only time the trouble lights go off is if you apply power to the zones
I think its that the idc circuit is not aupplying power to the pull