Are those resistors touching? That would be a problem right there. Make sure each circuit is separate from the others. Never apply external power to the zones. A pull station doesn’t need or use power; they simply complete a circuit across the zone terminals with less resistance than the EOL. Power on the zones is only for supervision and 2 wire smoke detectors.
I agree that a pull station does not use power, however the IDC requires voltage across the circuit to determine that a pull station has been pulled (switch contact closed).
Below is a drawing of a typical IDC. The zone positive terminal is fed 24 volts through some kind of reset circuit. This could be a relay or transistor. That voltage is applied to the field wiring and devices. When the circuit comes back to the Zone Negative terminal, it connects to a sensing resistor. This resistor value is about 1/10th the value of the EOLR.
A voltage comparator chip “reads” the voltage across the sensing resistor to determine the condition of the circuit and report that to the system CPU. The chart shows the zone condition compared to the various reference voltages. Less than 2 volts at Zone Negative Terminal creates a Open Circuit Trouble. From 2 volts to 7 volts the circuit is considered to be Normal. From 7 volts to 20 volts is considered a Current Limited Alarm from a 2-wire smoke detector. From 20 volts to the full 24 volts is considered a Short Circuit Alarm as from a pull station or mechanical heat detector.
Yes, I understand how to wire it but the pull station, when pulled does not activate anything
Are those resister wires touching?
Are you sure they are the correct value? is the band yellow - purple - red? (hard to tell from the picture)
If the zone + terminal is not putting out any voltage, pulling a station will not cause anything to happen because without power the circuit cannot know the station was pulled.
This has not been asked yet, do you have or have access to a voltmeter?
No but I can get one
what your dipswitch settings? did you remove the cover and change those at all? set them all to off if possible.
you have a power and system trouble because no battery is connected to the panel probably. i’m not sure why you’re getting troubles on your zones when they are dummied out with resistors. are the LED’s blinking or steady? they will be blinking if the zone is disabled, steady if the panel is silenced or an alarm is acknowledged. if this is the case, resetting the panel should make the lights go off.
for testing, put a strobe only on the NAC instead of the hornstrobe you have on it… will save your ears.
OK, here is the panel test.
First, get hold of a voltmeter.
Disconnect all wiring from the zone terminals. Just install end of line resistors. Straighten out the wire leads so it will not look like they are touching if you take another picture. Neatness counts!
Power up the panel.
Measure the voltage across Zone 1 and Zone 2. Each should have something around 24 volts DC. 1 to 3 volts either way is OK.
If the zone terminals do not have voltage across them or it is very low (1 volt or less) the panel has some kind of damage. The zones MUST have voltage across them to work.
Report what you find here and we can go from there.
Okay, I will try to buy one but it will take a couple of days
The panels fried, I was taking the voltages on the zones, nothing. Then suddenly a nac fault appeared and the nac circuit starting outputting power to the horn strobe and it would not stop
And, this is another example of why I am always telling new collectors to READ READ READ before they attempt this.
Now that I know how to ACTUALLY PROPERLY wire it, i plan on buying a silent knight conventional panel soon