Also what is the manufacturing date of that detector if it has one?
It has the typical squealer horn buzz but it did a pulse. Not sure if it’s do to a low battery or if it’s suppose to do that. according to the date code it’s from 1978. I’ll have a video posted up very soon
Oh okay I that I couldn’t tell you but I have never really heard of a squealer horn that pulsed so I am also guessing it could be the battery. Still it is a cool alarm. Can’t wait to see the videos. Let us know when they are up. Thanks. 
This Sears alarm also rare because it is neither a Fyrnetics or First Alert rebrand. Im not very familiar with Cerberus. Most Sears ones that I have seen in person have been the rebrand of the Fyrnetics. I know the ones my parents had in both of the houses I grew up in as a child were that one. It made the very high pitched continuous and very screechy buzz.
There were a couple I’m aware of:
Actually the Westclox units did pulse:
&
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2SteFG_lY8&index=138&list=PL91B9B77C5AEC2F6A (courtesy of our very own EdwardsFan, he has cloeup pics of it: My Fire Alarm Collection - Show off your Collection - The Fire Panel Forums)
The original SmokeGard 700 did:
and this rare First Alert/BRK PCB did
Wow interesting. Thanks Fire Alarm Fan, I always thought they were all in continious. Interesting enough that Westclox unit is the same one my parents had in their house but it did a continuous buzz. And it looks to be the same model. Either way very interesting and at least there is stuff out there about the Westclox units online than I had thought.
Here’s a video of my recent smoke alarm acquisitions, except for the Lifesaver 1200s do to there being no test button. The Honeywell CD100A I got a few days ago. Yes, I jammed the wires of the 120 volt smokes into an extension cord. Not the best method, but I did it as safely as I could.
Wow nice and yep that Montgomery ward was the same model my neighbour had in her house. I didn’t know you could test 120 volt detectors that way. How did you do that without getting shocked if you don’t mind me asking. I have a vintage Nortron detector (also 120 volt with a brass squealer). I would be afraid to test it that way. but it looks as that is the only way to do it.
You shouldn’t do it that way. You should wire it up using a cord and twist-on wiring connectors, also known as wire nuts. Here’s a video tutorial from NLind on how to do that:
I’ll 2nd what Simplex4life said. What NLind does in his video is the proper way, what I did was the very risky/lazy way. While I did unplug the extension cords while initially “plugging in” the wires (I used both a brown 2 prong, and an orange 3 prong), if one of those leads came out while powered I could have been shocked or started a fire. I’m going to get some lamp plugs on my next trip to Lowes and wire them properly. Also the green wire on the GE is an interconnect wire not a ground (I checked). The BRK has a yellow interconnect wire and a green ground wire (solid wire).
At least we know how to set off A/C smokes with a regular cord. I will have to check my AC detector to see in I can do this too. I currently have a very small collection of two alarms - an Nortron model TR88 (AC version) from around 1977 to 1980 since it has a brass squealer and a wind up fire bell that is very loud when it goes off. It is call a Gardsman and it is from the late 1950’s. The interesting thing about the TR88 is the test button is on the side of the detector and you have to slide it instead of pushing it to test it. Im still on the hunt for the TR77 (the battery version of the same alarm). I got both alarms from a second hand shop over a year ago.
I was going to share that video but b/c of the Thanksgiving holiday and preps I forgot. Anyways yes, that’s how you should wire up an AC smoke.
Thanks again Fire Alarm fan. I have tried looking up more info online on the TR77/TR88 and there is nothing much. Im going to see if I can keep trying and Im still on the lookout for the TR77 in second hand or thrift stores.
Love all the detectors in the video! I expected the hardwired GE H.S. to sound like that, since GameAlarm’s made the same sound. The rectangular GE H.S. is exactly like mine (minus the brown base of course) I still think the model number is actually 8201-401C. The Montgomery Wards and Sears alarms are both First Alert SA76RS rebrands. The BRK 769ACI is the same as the SA769AC, except the extra wires. I also noticed the model number is one number short of 1769ACI, which is an entirely different detector. Planned by BRK? Probably. I’ve always loved the pulsating sound of the 907A2! Also I believe the Honeywell CD100A is just like the TC49D.
Also a little bit about the Fyrnetics 1200:
Yes it does not have a test button, but you can manually test it. Remove the 3 screws on the back to remove the cover, and inside there should be a pot with a black knob. That is the sensitivity adjustment. If you turn it one way it will increase the sensitivity until it sounds the horn all the time. Then turn the pot back to its original position and replace the cover.
glad you liked the video. Thanks for the tip on testing my 1200s.
On a side note, I got 2 more smokes one being another sought after one.
1st one, a Universal Smoke Signal SS-200
unfortunately I won’t be testing this one, this is why:
And the much sought after one, a Sears 462.57361. My grandparents on my mother’s side had 2 of these without an LED in their house (one upstairs, one down). The one upstairs was replaced in 1988 with a Family Gard do to the test button falling off, the one downstairs remained at least until my grandmother sold the house in 1998 (the house has had 3 other owners and has been renovated since than so I doubt it’s still there)
A view I remember well going down the stairs.
the date stamp. This is probably around the time my grandparents got theirs probably do to me and my mom living with them at the time (they wouldn’t have gotten any smokes just for them).
The box. Generic compared to others in the Early One line
I did test it, and it sound a G# much like a BRK/First Alert from that era but does 5/6 (the ones at my grandparents sounded a G)
Wow the SS-200 is weird! I didn’t know it was 12.6 volt, and the sensor looks really interesting. The horn looks like a combination of an Edwards and a Kobishi. Does it contain Radium or Americium? Also the Sears is a Gateway rebrand, you can tell by the square base. And yes they did the 5/6.
I just checked, it contains Radium 226, the Sears (and the rest of my home smokes for that matter) contain Americium 241
Hi all! Not a collector myself, but I found your community when searching for info on a smoke detector I happen to have. According to an earlier post in this thread from Willbill808, it’s a rare detector, so I’d like to sell it but I have no idea what it’s worth or where to find pricing guides. Figured I’d ask the experts! 
Anyway, it’s a BRK 1769ACI. Detector and mounting plate for the wall, no box or anything. Have included links to a few photos in case that helps - not sure how to embed them in my post. Thanks!
Neat thread, guys. Honestly kind of surprised that there are fire alarm/smoke alarm enthusiasts out there.
I’m a neophyte collector - and actually only started collecting on a fluke. I have always been fascinated with the Teledyne Water Pik alarms, and that’s what I’m focused on finding now. I have a D-1 that I purchased on eBay a year ago or so, but I’m on the hunt for a D-2, both the 9V version that looks like the D-1 and the Sonic Siren. Any leads on where to find NOS versions with box and manual would be appreciated. I’m willing to pay top dollar for them.
Once I get a few more alarms in my collection, I’ll share, but I’ve got only got a couple of older First Alerts (I have not paid attention to the model, they’re nothing special, no escape light, pretty sure they’re both photoelectric), a C&M Model 2001, and a dud Nest Protect that I kept after it failed. The rest of the alarms in my house are Nest Protects.
I’ll probably be more of a lurker than a poster (in fact, I happened upon this forum probably two years ago and have just joined today), but I enjoy reading and learning.
Best regards,
Ryan
These may not be quite as rare (from 1986 and 1987) and some are most likely still installed, but these showed up at my doorstep yesterday:
A First Alert SA67D (on the right) and a SA130C.
Both work, and do 5/6. The light on the SA130C shines continuously and will only operate if the horn is powered.